November 5 (Saturday)
Place: Ilha Grande – Paraty
How to get:
1) Take a boat from Ilha Grande to Conceicao de Jacareí (using this return ticket you bought before for 40 rials, so one way is 20, or buy one way ticket which is 35 rials). In front of the pier there is a bus station. Take a bus to Angra dos Reis (17 rials), then another bus to Parati (3.80 rials).
2) Take a boat from Ilha Grande to Angra Dos Reis (15 rials) and take a bus to Paraty (12.50 rials).
Accommodation: Staying with CS/HelpX/AirBnb host french sailor Michal on a boat
There was a rain the whole night. Woke up from the birds singing.
I took a first boat at 10am. My yesterday follower Ilya decided to join me to Paraty but changed his mind in Angra dos Reis and went to Rio.
There was one hour waiting for the next bus (at 1pm) and I went to the nearest cafe. I just entered and put my backpack on a chair as one man jumped at me and said: “Hey, you worked for Olympic Games! I watched on TV!” And the only recognizable thing I was wearing were olympic shoes)) The man and his family live in Ilha Grande, he sells sweets. But in a last few days and today the weather was pretty shitty and no one was buying it, so he came here with his daughters and wife to this “big city” do some shopping and get ice-cream.
The road to Paraty took 2 hours. When I arrived I started searching for the pier. I’m wondering why is this so often when CS hosts don’t give you the exact location. The only I knew: come to the pier in an old town and ask anyone about the french sailor and they will call me. If this doesn’t work find someone with vivo simcard and call me. My quest game started from finding the right pier. I walked around the coast for a while and found the most crowded one which I believed could be called as a pier of an old town. After asking the sailors about french guy called Michel I found out no one knew him… These all was happening with me carrying my two backpacks, and I gave up, sit on a bench and started talking with another sailor who didn’t speak any English like any of them. Somehow I explained him I needed to call via vivo and he had it. I called Michal and he asked to meet him in cafe Camoka at 5pm.
The second round of my adventure started. After walking here and there along the little streets following the directions of the people which were completely different from person to person I felt down on the grass with my heavy backpacks with “I will never find it” feeling. I left one in an art gallery and continued with a new hope. This “famous” cafe was apparently as famous as “every one knows Michel”))
I ended up in another gallery with an amazing young woman Renata who gave me a warm welcoming in her newly opened workshop space facing straight to the pier. She came here from Argentina 5 years ago followed by love to Brazilian guy (yes, she is also that one)). One year later they broke up and he left to the north. Now she is happily living here (probably with a cat), teaching children ceramics and selling her own artworks.
Finally I met Michel in Camoka at 5pm, he is 68 old french sailor, who came to Brazil as an exchange specialist for few months and felt in love with the country. Now he got retired Brazilian visa and this boat is his home since 6 years. He looks like the real sailor from the book, you can imagine a parrot on his shoulder, tricorn hat and a pirate eye patch. He can tell you many stories of crossing the oceans alone during the storms and teach you the flag language.
I never stayed on this small boats before, and I was thinking the boat is near the pier, so you can just step into it from the pier. But it appeared that the boat is few hundreds meters away from the land and you need to take another little motor boat to get there. There were 4 very similar boats standing next to each others and Michel asked me which one do I think was his. I picket one with no sense but my feeling and was right. The interesting fact is that if you have a boat – you have a house, but your house don’t have any address))